by Philippa Lyon
03.03.2010
© Namuchila
Trains are back. Our carbon footprint guilt and airport procedure-fatigue are reviving our affection for train travel. For too long we have aspired to the Dr. Who-like method of aeroplane travel: boarding in winter, disembarking in summer, flying above mountains, lakes, great plains and forests only to go from one city to another. Ridiculously low airline prices allowed destinations in Europe, the US and North Africa to become viable long-weekend breaks.
But whilst we gaze from that small window upon the whiteness of clouds or the pitch black of night there’s a world below that we are overlooking. Literally. Famous quotations seek to remind us to enjoy the journey and let the destination take care of itself – and this is the beating heart of train travel. The lulling rhythm of the train gives us time to soak in our surroundings, witnessing the world in all its normality and wonder. We can watch as city becomes country, soaking in the plains or cutting through mountain edges, getting a rounded impression of the country in which we are travelling. Train journeys inspire friendships and chance meetings with the weird and wonderful – there’s a train chatter that is shunned on aircraft.
There are many, many great train journeys the world over, but, what we’ve endeavoured to include here are amazing journeys – not destinations, and hopefully a few railways you’ve never heard of. And a little WideWorld tip before you set off: Don’t be afraid of delays, bad smells, peculiar companions, rattling doors, unappetising food, precipitous climbs, altitude sickness and jolts in the night – but remember the words of Paul Theroux: "It is almost axiomatic that the worst trains take you through magical places."
Most famous train journey
The grandfather of all train journeys, the Trans-Siberian Railway, was hailed as “the fairest jewel in the crown of the Tsars” and remains to this day one of the world’s greatest travel adventures. The classic route is Moscow to Vladivostok, a mere 9288km that you can do in as little as a week or several months depending on where, and for how long, you stop. Also consider the lesser-known routes of this legendary railway: the Trans-Mongolian itinerary, the Beijing Loop, and a journey that takes in the stunning Lake Baikal.
The longest train journey
The Trans-Siberian is the longest train journey on earth, but since it is also the most famous, we’re heading south to feature another mammoth train journey on the island continent – Australia. The Indian Pacific Train crosses this mighty country east to west, from Sydney to Perth. Over 4000km in length, the Indian Pacific begins and ends with oceans, taking you past the spectacular Blue Mountains and the plains of The Nullarbor, where the train travels the world's longest straight stretch of railway track (478 kilometres). Look out for the magnificent Australian wedge-tailed eagle, which is the symbol of The Ghan. Binoculars will not be necessary as this eagle has a wingspan of up to two metres!
www.gsr.com.au/our-trains/indian-pacific/the-journey.php
The highest train journey
When a train is fitted with oxygen supply systems you know you’ll be going up… The China-Tibet line, completed in 2006, includes the Tanggula Pass, which, at 5,072 m (16,640 feet) above sea level, is the world's highest railway. The journey also winds through the world’s highest rail tunnel - The Fenghuoshan - 4,905 m above sea level and is known as the nearest door to the heaven, and passes the Tanggula Mountain railway station – the highest railway station in the world. If you can cope with altitude sickness and freezing temperatures the views out towards the Tanggula Mountain, its river, lake and glacier are reported to be spectacular. On a political note, the Chinese government faced international criticism, as many believe it is using the railway to strengthen its political control over Tibet.
Highly recommended: Train to the Clouds (Tren a las Nubes) is a train service that connects the Argentine Northwest with the border with Chile travelling through the Andes mountain range at heights of over 4,220 metres above sea level. Expect ear-popping on the way down.
Historic train route
Huff-puffing you up to the small town of Darjeeling in the foothills of the Himalayas, The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) is the first and only World Heritage railway in India. Dating back to 1881, the bright blue DHR (nicknamed the “Toy Train”) has been an integral part of the Darjeeling region for over a hundred years and is has been crucial to the hill economy of the area. It is also known as a wonder of non-engineering, as it doesn’t use rack mechanism or cable as other mountain railways do, but moves only on adhesion.
Highly recommended: Rocky Mountaineer’s Kicking Horse route, Vancouver- Banff & Calgary, Canada. This is the most historically significant route in Canada, as it travels over the famous Canadian Pacific Railway, Canada’s first trans-continental line that first opened in 1885.
Best European train journey
The Bernina Express in Switzerland is one of the world’s most spectacular stretches of railway, and this year celebrates its 100th anniversary. In just a little over two hours, this train journey takes you from palm trees to glaciers – climbing and descending almost 6000ft between St. Moritz and the village of Tirano in Northern Italy, carving its way through the Alps. During the summer months many of the trains have open-topped carriages giving panoramic views of the remarkable scenery.
Highly recommended: The Glacier Express from Zermatt to St. Moritz; The Flam Railway in Norway; El Transcantábrico in Spain; the Vangölü Ekspresi in Turkey.
Scariest train journey
The Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) train journey in Ecuador is most famous for its 45-degree descent down the steep cliff of the same name. It’s frequently referred to as “the most difficult train in the world” but this clearly doesn’t put off thrill seekers who go the distance on the roof of the train. The ride takes you through every climate zone in the land, starting in the cool high lands, going through the cloud forest, and ending in the hot coastal jungle.
Highly recommended: White Pass & Yukon Route in Canada.
Best UK train journey
The West Highland Line was revived after Wanderlust magazine voted it “Best Rail Journey” in 2009. The Line travels from Glasgow to Fort William & Mallaig in Scotland, and whilst its name doesn’t necessarily inspire, you will be open-mouthed at the scenery that passes you by. And if you need any more encouragement, the Man himself, in Seat 61, says, “it's one of my favourite journeys anywhere.”
Highly recommended: Settle to Carlisle in Scotland – “There is not a dull mile in the whole line as it weaves between such peaks as Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and Whernside,” says Anthony Lambert in The Independent.
Cross-country train ride
The week-long Himsagar Express is the longest train route in India, taking you from Jammu in the far north to Kanyakumari, the last southernmost point on the Indian mainland. Making its way through 11 Indian states and stopping at 75 stations this incredible journey is a window to the diversity of India. Highly recommended: The Ghan in Australia travels north from Adelaide to Darwin crossing through Australia’s famous Red Centre. Also worth a mention is the Overlander in New Zealand which takes you from Wellington to Auckland – and allegedly it’s this train journey that inspired Peter Jackson to make Lord of the Rings in New Zealand.
Best budget option
The Blue Train in South Africa, famously known as “the window to the soul of South Africa” is a luxury tour from Pretoria to Cape Town, and comes with a starting fare of £700. For a mere £40, you can travel along pretty much the same 1,400km route on the colourfully painted Trans-Karoo with the locals, experiencing the same breathtaking views and changing scenery, albeit minus a butler and a bathrobe. The Trans-Karoo also leaves from Johannesburg, which is a more convenient transport hub than Pretoria.
Best for specific sites
Peru’s most famous train journey goes from Cusco (Poroy) to the ancient ruins of Macchu Pichu. There are three different levels of train: the Backpacker, the Vistadome and the luxury Hiram Bingham. The four-hour journey begins from the village of Poroy just outside Cusco, descends into the Sacred Valley, passes the colourful villages in the foothills of the Andes and weaves alongside the Urubamba River before reaching Machu Picchu. Highly recommended: The Copper Canyon railway in Mexico gives you exceptional views of this famous Canyon, which is four times larger than The Grand Canyon of Arizona.
Desert train journey
The route of the Desert Express, between Windhoek and Swakopmund in Namibia, travels between two extremes, the savannahs of the Khomas plateau and the beautiful dune landscapes of the Namib Desert, with the harsh landscape of the semi-desert in between. The train stops for the night, so no scenery will be missed on the route.
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