James Pearson’s prime climbs

Top climber details the best spots in Europe

Already a household name in climbing circles, James Pearson’s audacious style and taste for extreme challenges has made real ripples in the sporting scene. A traditional climber by nature and raised among the Peak District’s classic gritstone, James’ constant striving for harder and harder routes has taken him around the world. We caught up with him this Spring to plumb his knowledge of truly great Euro climbs.

Take us through your last great climb – where was it, what was it like and why did you take it on?

My last great climb was a route I called ‘The Walk of Life’.  It is a giant, glass-smooth sea cliff on the North Devon coast, and I was the first person to climb it back in the summer of 2008. Simply put, it was the most intimidating challenge I ever took on, and there were numerous times I doubted whether I would ever complete the final ascent (or even survive if I tried and failed). What started out as an innocent little idea grew into a monster that almost consumed me, and made me really question my motives for climbing dangerous routes.  In the end it all worked out well, I can look back on the time with rose tinted glasses and smile, and am ready for the next ‘BIG’ one.

What motivates you to climb every day?

It’s really simple – climbing makes me happy, and when it stops making me happy, I will stop climbing.

How is it possible to climb without brute force?

A big part of climbing is about physical strength, mainly in your upper body.  However, a bigger part of climbing is about technique, and this is mainly to do with how you utilise your lower body to take a percentage of the stress away from your hands. You can do many amazing things with your hips and knees that put you in positions where you can completely let go with your hands – even on overhanging rock!

Can you explain the different skills needed for bouldering versus climbing?

Bouldering is essentially climbing stripped down to its most basic nature. You take away all the things that can detract from your performance (weight of equipment, fear, fatigue etc) and all you are left with is you versus the rock. In bouldering, you are able to try the hardest moves possible, and quickly develop strength and skill.

How do UK climbers shape up to those from other countries?

You really reap what you sow, and by that I mean you are going to be best at whatever you put most time and effort into. The UK has a lot of great traditional climbers, some of the best in the world in fact, simply because this is the style of climbing that most of us are brought up on.  We also have quite a lot of great boulderers, but when it comes to Sport climbing, we are way behind the pack.

Who are your climbing heroes, and why?

My climbing heroes are probably Johnny Dawes and Ben Moon. In their own individual way they revolutionised British (and worldwide) climbing, and are both super cool and motivating guys to hang around with.

What’s your goal for 2010?

Originally for 2010 I had planned to move back to the UK (I’m currently in Innsbruck, Austria) to attempt some ‘big’ unclimbed traditional routes on the South Wales coastline, but situations have now changed and I am able to stay in Austria for a little longer than I thought. So now my plans have shifted to two expeditions I am going on with The North Face: the first to Turkey and the second to Chad.  The objective of both is to establish new routes in unclimbed areas, document it and share the results with the global community. I am really excited about both, it’s going to be a fun year!

James Pearson’s top 10 European climbs

Gerty Berwick, Ilkley, England

This crazy route is almost ungradeable. Big dynos between 4 small holds get you up the first 20ft. Next-generation stuff!

Skruti Beh, 8a, Czech Republic

Possibly the best sport route I have ever climbed, Perfect rock and moves. Very, very spaced bolts, which for me make it even better!

The Walk Of Life, E11, England

My personal epic, finally completed in September 2008. The hardest and scariest lead of my life!

The Power of the Darkside, E8 6b, England

One of my own first ascents from back in the day, and still one of my favourites.  Powerful, insecure and unusual climbing for grit stone; watch out for the terrible landing!

The Source, 8c/+, Austria

I haven’t climbed it, but from watching others know how amazing it will be. Situated on “The Black Wall”, it is long, bouldery and futuristic.

Slot Machine, 8a, Italy

A really nice, technical route on slopey pinches. As roadside as they come and a nice way up onto one of the biggest boulders in the world!

Reve de Papillon, 8a, France

The first 8a in France. A pretty cool route in its own right and the classic status gets it in the list.

Painted Roumour, E6 6a, England

A huge roof, on good holds, on Gritstone; what are you waiting for.  Make the most of the hands off rest at the lip before tackling the thin and tricky top wall.  Superb.

Loskot and two smoking barrels, Mallorca

One of the best routes ever! A glorious, easy bottom wall leads to a good rest and then a huge all points off dyno, 15m above the waves. Commit or fall, it really is that simple.  Save a little for the tricky final boulder as it’s a heartbreakingly long fall if you drop from here!

Hupolup Kempf, Mallorca

One of the gnarliest and best deep water-solos I have done. It’s described in the guide as “Showing the way of things to come... Prepare for some serious air-time!” and that is a pretty fitting description. First climbed at by Klem Loscot and Chris Sharma during 2003, it features dynamic horizontal roof climbing, 17m above the Ocean, leading to a final tricky top wall and eventual victory.  One of my proudest moments above the sea!

Find out more about James at The North Face