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Did weather end Mallory Everest attempt?

Scientists say 'perfect storm' could have thwarted legendary Everest effort

by Alison Mann

18.08.2010

Mallory and Irvine could have been thwarted by a 'perfect storm'

The weather forecaster determines many an outdoor pursuit - a forecast of heavy rain and wind can halt a morning's rowing, and pleasant sunshine can make any climber positively dash for their chalk bag.

Now the forecaster seems to be solving a popular debate with the recent revelation that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine almost certainly didn't reach the summit of Everest in 1924.

Top scientists now believe that, far from making it to the peak, the intrepid duo was actually killed by a ‘perfect storm’.

The experts claim weather data collected at the time of the 1924 ascent reveal the two Brits were enveloped in a blizzard.

The University of Toronto scientists also believe that the pair's pretty primitive clothing and equipment would have provided them with little protection against the deadly storm.

The research could now confirm that New Zealander Sir Edmund Hilary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first climbers to reach the 29,035 ft peak, 29 years later, laying to rest a debate that has lasted decades.

Professor Kent Moore of the university's physics department said: "The disappearance of Mallory and Irvine is one of the most enduring mysteries of the 20th century, yet throughout the debates surrounding their disappearance, the issue of the weather has never really been addressed.

"We analysed the barometric pressure measurements and found out that during the Mallory and Irvine summit attempt, there was a drop in barometric pressure at base camp of approximately 18mbar.

"This is quite a large drop, in comparison the deadly 1996 'Into Thin Air' storm had a pressure drop at the summit of approximately 8 mbar.

"We concluded that Mallory and Irvine most likely encountered a very intense storm as they made their way towards the summit."

The climbers were last seen fading into the clouds on Everest’s Northeast Ridge on June 8th, 1924.

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