Travel: Bog off in Estonia

Bog-walking is incredibly popular in Eastern Europe: we sent a writer to find out why

It is four in the morning yet barely dark. Summer nights in Estonia are incredibly hazy and light. The mist is forming on the ground as I cycle through the pine forest. It smells wonderful - a mix of globeflowers, wild camomile and daisies. The strongest smell belongs to March rosemary. Every step closer to the bog strengthens the smell and covers the trail with more fog. In the end it's impossible to see the road. The ground turns damp and sways. It is hopeless to cycle any further. I leave my bike leaning against a tree a mile from the bog and walk the rest the way. It is quiet; no sign of civilisation - no people, no highways or traffic noise. Instead I hear grouse, crane, pied wagtail and other birds nesting in the wetlands. Suddenly, I am in the middle of bog-pools and water.

Soomaa means Land of Bogs. This unusual activity has been gaining popularity ever since travel articles were published in Lonely Planet and Wanderlust. Just when swamps are turning into a rarity in Europe, mostly due to overpopulation, Estonia is witnessing a tourist crowd that comes just to see these mysterious land-forms. One-fifth of this small country is covered with bogs. It is estimated that Estonia has around 9,840 wetlands. The oldest of them started forming more than 7,000 - 8,000 years ago. Most of these bogs are rarely visited and wild but some of them have guest houses, viewing platforms and special routes for eager tourists.

One great thing about bog walking is it can be done regardless of the season; each offers a unique look into a bog’s life-cycle. There are a number of wildlife photographers, bird watchers and campers who build their work around just one bog. They sit in the middle of the bog-pools, year-round, for decades and claim with utmost sincerity that there are undiscovered wonders still hidden underneath the moss and peat.

There is no best season to visit the bog. In spring the bog resuscitates after a long and dark winter. Flowers start to blossom. Trees are covered with light green buds. Due to melting snow, bogs are overflowing with fresh and clean spring-water. It is a season of new life.

Summers are great for white nights and swimming. On June 23rd Estonians celebrate Midsummer's Eve - the longest day of the year. The sun sets for few short hours. Night bog walking is a great way to explore during this time. And why not jump in a bog lake? The waters are usually cold, brown and murky but the lakes are unpolluted. It's the season for invigoration.

Autumn is the busiest time in bogs. Half the country is berry or mushroom picking in the forest and swamps. The bogs are full of colours - trees are changing from green to red and yellow. The moss carpet is full of berries and mushrooms. It is noisy and energetic. It is the season of preparation for coming winter.

Winter is the quietest time of year. Bogs are covered with a white snow blanket. Birds are gone. Trees, plants and animals are sleeping and resting for the next spring. Bog-pools are covered with thick ice, inviting visitors to skate and play hockey. For bog lovers it is a season for snow-shoe hikes, winter camping trips and cross country skiing.

Bog walking offers something for everyone. For cautious tourists the special, marked routes are the safest bet. It is wise to bring a local friend or hire a guide who can tell you bog stories and make sure you don’t get lost - not to mention show you the best spots for bird watching and photography. The more adventurous exploe the bogs on their own and away from popular routes. It's a strange and rewarding experience walking on the surface and jumping from sod to sod. Swamps might look scary at first, but Estonians throughout history have wandered through them picking cloud-berries, cranberries, herbs and mushrooms. They'll assure you there is nothing scary about the place. The scariest and most dangerous things in bogs are the careless people who refuse to appreciate this delicate and precious environment. For all the others, bog walking is a unique adventure.

For more information visit www.seikleja.com or www.soomaa.com