Climbers blocked

Battle of the Wye Valley

Gloucestershire, a county famed for climbing, cricket and cheese-rolling, is an unlikely contender for the site of a raging battle. Yet when a situation comprises new landowners, a handful of dedicated climbers, and one of the most celebrated hiking spots in the Southwest, it's no-holds-barred.

Wintour’s Leap, known as the ‘gem of the Wye Valley’, is situated on the English side of the river, just north of Chepstow and near the village of Woodcroft, Gloucestershire. Made up of numerous climbing routes, ranging from short problems to 350+ metre multi-pitch climbs, to say the limestone of Wintour’s leap is coveted would be a drastic understatement.

In late June, climbers and walkers alike were dismayed to find that the two entrance points to Woodcroft Quarry had been sealed off with bright orange plastic fencing. Not only had they been deprived of some of the best British multi-pitch climbing areas, but the closure had taken place with no contact, no warning and no reason. It soon became evident that the new landowners had taken it upon themselves to restrict access to the bottom of the quarry. The recent rise in groups of local youngsters frequenting the quarry has meant that public safety has become a pressing concern for landowners and the local council alike, hence the prompt arrival of fencing.

Within a few days, however, the fence had been cut, and, naturally, the climbers bore the brunt of the blame. Climbers in the region were left bemused by the array of conflicting instructions regarding whether the quarry was out of bounds or whether access was permitted at the bottom but not the top. It has finally emerged, following discussion with the new landowners, that certain areas, including the quarry, are indeed out of bounds, but “if you are not seen you will not be challenged”.

Confused?

It seemed that the main issue was to prevent access to the quarry from the top, for reasons of public safety. Yet as one climber of the UK Climbing Association points out, “the location is such that 100% exclusion is basically impossible”, hence the plethora of mixed messages.

What can be done? Talks are ongoing between hikers, the landowners and representatives from the British Mountaineering Council in an attempt to clear up any misunderstanding and, fingers crossed, a compromise will be reached that will comply with safety regulations whilst simultaneously granting climbing enthusiasts access to one of the most celebrated walls in the UK.